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2002 FEATURES
Consumer Report
ON THE ROAD AGAIN
For many boat owners, trailers are an afterthought, though they protect one of your Largest Investments.
Story by Gregg Mansfield
Photography by Tom Newby
Marc Blondin likes to tell the story about a guy who spent $500,000 on a new Nor-Tech powerboat and was shopping trailer prices.The boat owner was insistent on getting a “beer can” trailer-one with no Frills-for $7,500 and if he couldn’t, he’d build it himself.
“You can’t believe how often that happens,” said Blondin of Michigan-based Manning Trailers. “He spent a half-million dollars on a boat and doesn’t want to make sure it’s protected.”
For many boat buyers, the trailer simply comes with the boat and they don’t think about it until they’re Stranded on the side of the road, broken down.
Consider this: A powerboat will spend more time on the trailer than it will in the water.
“Other than a house, a boat is probably the biggest investment you’ll make in your lifetime,” said Eddie Rowland, president of Extreme Custom Trailers in Riverside, Calif.
Here’s what you should know about trailers.
New Breed of Trailer
Fortunately, trailer builders also report that consumers are becoming more educated about the steel structures they put beneath their boats. In fact, many trailers have become, figuratively speaking, extensions of the boats they carry. Custom rims, stainless tool boxes and matching paint jobs are Standard fare on high-end trailers.
Customization has created a booming market for trailer builders, who continually look for appealing features, such as Laser etching, to set them apart from other manufacturers.
These added frills aren’t cheap, often adding hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, to the price of a trailer.Combine that with a color-matched tow vehicle and the price can get pretty steep.
Picking a Trailer
Whether a boat trailer is standard or custom, the type of metal that will be used to build it is crucial.
If the trailer will be put into saltwater-even once-galvanized steel is the only choice. Galvanized steel is better at resisting saltwater corrosion, but eventually the salt will take its toll, said Rowland of Extreme Custom Trailers. Rowland goes a step further by hot-dipping ocean-bound trailers.
“As much ocean water as there is out there. I don’t advise anybody going into salt unless it’s some kind of galvanized
trailer,” Rowland said.
A coat of paint on a steel trailer won’t even stop the rust from taking hold. “It’s going to rust. It’s just a matter of how long,” he said.
For freshwater boating, trailers built from stainless steel, aluminum or painted steel will do the job. Make sure, experts say, that the screws and bolts on the trailer are stainless steel.
The owners of trailers dunked in freshwater also need to be vigilant on slowing rust. The trailer should be wiped down after its pulled from the water and manufacturers recommend it be waxed at least twice a year. Any scratches in the paint should be touched up to prevent the spread of rust.
Axle Questions
All trailers are designed to handle a maximum weight. Go over that weight load and it puts undue stress on the axles and frame.
The number of axles on a trailer is determined by the length of the boat and how much it weighs. The vast majority of trailers now are tandem axle, but some single-axle trailers are still built. Larger offshore boat trailers will demand
three or more axles
Buyers should follow the guidance of the manufacturer on this one. The builder will consider the weight of the boat, plus a full tank of gas and added weight for a smaller amount of equipment of equipment in determining the number of axles.
A single-axle trailer is fine on boats 18’ and under, experts say. If the trailer has too many axles, it will ride stiff.
Ask questions but let the manufacturer be the guide.
Brake System
The greatest advancement in the last decade for boat trailers has been the addition of disc brakes. The system improved braking dramatically-and it’s easier to maintain.
Drum brakes are prevalent on older trailers but most builders have made the switch to disc brakes because consumers were demanding the improved product.
“Drum brakes were the bread and butter of trailer business for years,” said Don King, director of operations for MYCO Trailers in Bradenton, Fla. “This first disc brakes weren’t very good. It was just taken from automobiles and brought over to the marine industry.”
King said the life of drum brakes is generally 18 months to two years, but disc brakes will last two or more years. Another advantage is that disc brakes are cheaper to service.
Buying Tips
Nowhere is the old adage “you get what you pay for” truer than in the boat-trailer industry, if the trailer looks cheap or sounds weak when you knock on the sides, it probably is.
The hallmark of a good trailer is the attention to detail. Good builders often will do the little things-caulking around welds to eliminate rough edges to individually grounding each light on the trailer. Those details take time, which obviously costs the manufacturer money and adds to the final price.
Buyers should ask what kind of steel was used to build the trailer and if it was primered. Check to see if the bolts and screws are stainless, along with the other hardware on the boat. Look at the welds to see if they are properly done. Examine whether the trailer has enough support bars-the industry slang is “ribs” to hold the boat. (A21-foot trailer should have at least four ribs).
Additionally, read the fine print on the warranty. Few manufacturers will cover rust on trailers, the most common problem. “They’re all rusting as we speak inside, “Rowland said. “It takes years and years and years. Everybody need to understand that they rust.”
Some builders will try to save money by putting inexpensive tires and rims on the trailer. One colleague tells the story about buying a new boat and trailer, only to discover the tires on the trailer had not been manufactured for three years.
On most trailers, the spare tire is an option but it’s one that’s worth the price. Spring for it.
A trailer’s Life
As much as we care for a trailer, from rinsing off the saltwater to giving a twice-yearly wax job and servicing the moving parts, it has only so much life in it. After 10 years, owners should get a yearly inspection and even consider having it refurbished-or replacing it.
King of MYCO Trailers says he’s seen trailers 17 years and older come into the plant. “You can get 20 years or more if you take care of it,” he said.
The trailer is the unappreciated equipment in any boating trip. Appreciate your trailer a little now and then. After all it’s protecting your precious and expensive toy.
TRAILER EDUCATION
(A) BEARINGS
Before any road trip, always check the grease in the bearings if the grease level is low, water can be sucked into the bearings, eventually causing the bearings to fail.
(B) TIRES
A common problem on trailers is low tire pressure, which can lead to blowouts Manufacturers recommend checking the tire pressure before each trip. The tire’s proper inflation level can be found on the tire itself of the manufacturer’s label on the trailer. Experts also recommend replacing the tires every three to five years regardless of how many miles are on them.
(C) BRAKES
Disc brakes are standard on most trailers, replacing antiquated drums Disc brakes provide better stopping on heavier trailers and are easier to maintain. Inspect the brake pads once a year for any problems. If the trailer goes into saltwater, make sure to flush the brakes and wheels with freshwater.
(D) “Treat your trailer as you would treat your car.” Says Eddie Rowland, president of Extreme Custom Trailers. That means waxing your trailer twice a year, which will help extend its life. A good trailer could last 10 or more years. If you find any chips in the paint, touch it up to prevent rusting. Inspect the welds occasionally for signs of cracks or fatigue.
(E) BRAKE FLUID
Check the brake fluid level before each trip. The reservoir will be located near the t5railer hitch or inside the tongue frame. If the fluid always seems top be low, check for a leak in the lines, calipers or the master cylinder.
(F) BUNKS
The general rule for bunks is that when the carpet it torn it’s probably time to replace the wood supports. Stepped-bottom boats tend to tear up the carpet faster because of the sharper edges on the boat.
(G) LIGHTS
Always check the trailer lights before going on a trip and once the boat is pulled out of the water. That’s elementary stuff, you’re thinking but how many times have you driven down a highway and seen the lights out on a trailer? If they’re not working, check the usual suspects: connection to the tow vehicle, burned out light bulb or a bad ground somewhere in the system.
(H) SPARE TIRE
It’s a must on all trailers, but unfortunately most manufacturers only offer it as an option. Check the air pressure in the spare before each trip, because if it’s flat, it’s no good to you on the side of the highway.
(I) LUG NUTS
It’s good to check several times a year to make sure the lug nuts are tight. Lug nuts can loosen from being dipped in waters and sometimes during long road trips.
(J) GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT
The sticker will be located on the inside of the frame, generally toward the hitch. Know how much weight your trailer can support. The manufacturer should build the trailer to hold the boat, full tank of gas and a normal amount of equipment. Going over that limit will put undue stress on the axles and tires.
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